How to have a good night out in Seville

As is typical in Spain, nights out in Seville start late, and if you know where to look they carry on until the morning, ending with churros and chocolate down by the river.

Most bars and restaurants in Seville stay open until midnight, and some bars stay open until 2 or 3 in the morning. Although some clubs and discos will have opened earlier in the evening, most don't really start hopping until after midnight or even later. Thursdays through Saturdays are the busiest, and some clubs are only open on these days. In summer especially you can spend the late evening bar hopping from terrazza to terrazza, especially on the riverside along Calle Betis in Triana, or along the Alameda de Hercules. Other "hotspots" include the Alfalfa, and the area around the Puerta Arenal.

Below I've recommended some of the best late-night bars, clubs and discos, live music venues, and, of course, some flamenco bars.

Getting started

To start the evening Sevillano fashion grab a cold beer at El Tremendo near the Plaza Santa Catalina, or at Bodeguita Antigua or Los Soportales in the Plaza Salvador. These are popular with the locals and (outdoor) standing room only. 

For something more upmarket, with prices to match, you can't beat the Bar San Fernando in the Alfonso XIII hotel,or the trendy Glassy Lounge at 5, Paseo Colon. For the best mojitas and an upbeat cosy atmosphere go to Café L'Art at 17, Calle General Castaños in the Arenal.

For one of those magic moments watch the sunset over the Cathedral from the rootop bars at the Fontecruz Hotel on Calle Abades, the EME on Calle Alemanes (popular with the hipster crowd), or the Doña Maria just off the Plaza Virgenes de los Reyes.

Flamenco

Flamenco basically comes in three types. The tablaos are professional performances, usually with tapas and drinks, with two shows a night. Typical are Los Gallos, in the Plaza Santa Cruz, El Arenal in Calle Rodo or Patio Sevillano on Cristobal Colon. They're enjoyable, but mostly aimed at the tourist trade.     

For a more informal alternative, cross the river to Triana and visit Lo Nuestro on Calle Betis. La Anselma on Pages del Corro used to be a favourite of mine, but seems to have fallen victim to its own success and is now packed with tourists and has lost its charm. Likewise the very well-known La Carbonería in Calle Levies, which used to be the best boho flamenco venue in the centre, now sells souvenirs just inside the entrance.

Clubs and discos

One of the best disco clubs is Sala Boss, which is at 67, Calle Betis on the Triana bank of the river, one of the most popular haunts of late-night revellers. It opens its doors around midnight and stays open until dawn. The music is commercial-house, and the clientele mostly trendy twentysomethings. Wednesday is "International Day", and there are funky parties on Thursday nights (or Friday mornings). Entrance is €8 or €10 and includes your first drink.

Even more upmarket is the Antique Theatro, in Matematicos Rey Pastor y Castro street across the river in the Cartuja. This is probably the most famous disco in Seville and the one where you are most likely to find celebrities like footballers, bullfighters and entertainers. The disco has very good house music with international dj's, and there are VIP and private rooms. Entrance is normally free.  

Live Music

If live music is more your thing, there are some good venues dotted around Seville, but be warned, you're not going to get to bed early. Some of the favourites are Fun Club at Alameda 86 for rock and electric, El Perro Andaluz, a recently renovated bar at Bustos Tavera 11 by Santa Catalina which is a favoured spot for actors and artists, and Sala Malandar at Torneo 43, down by the river, for an eclectic and progressive mix of styles.