As is typical in
Spain, nights out in Seville start late, and if you know where to look they
carry on until the morning, ending with churros and chocolate down by the river.
Most bars and restaurants in Seville stay open until
midnight, and some bars stay open until 2 or 3 in the morning. Although some
clubs and discos will have opened earlier in the evening, most don't really
start hopping until after midnight or even later. Thursdays through Saturdays
are the busiest, and some clubs are only open on these days. In summer
especially you can spend the late evening bar hopping from terrazza to
terrazza, especially on the riverside along Calle Betis in Triana, or along the
Alameda de Hercules. Other "hotspots" include the Alfalfa, and the
area around the Puerta Arenal.
Below I've recommended some of the best late-night
bars, clubs and discos, live music venues, and, of course, some flamenco bars.
Getting started
To start the evening Sevillano fashion grab a cold
beer at El Tremendo near the Plaza Santa Catalina, or at Bodeguita Antigua or Los Soportales in the Plaza Salvador. These are popular with the locals and
(outdoor) standing room only.
For something more upmarket, with prices to match, you
can't beat the Bar San Fernando in the Alfonso XIII hotel,or the trendy Glassy
Lounge at 5, Paseo Colon. For the best mojitas and an upbeat cosy atmosphere go
to Café L'Art at 17, Calle General Castaños in the Arenal.
For one of those magic moments watch the sunset over
the Cathedral from the rootop bars at the Fontecruz Hotel on Calle Abades, the EME on Calle
Alemanes (popular with the hipster crowd), or the Doña Maria just off the Plaza Virgenes de los Reyes.
Flamenco
Flamenco basically comes in three types. The tablaos
are professional performances, usually with tapas and drinks, with two shows a
night. Typical are Los Gallos, in the Plaza Santa
Cruz, El Arenal in Calle Rodo
or Patio Sevillano on Cristobal
Colon. They're enjoyable, but mostly aimed at the tourist
trade.
For a more informal alternative, cross the river to
Triana and visit Lo Nuestro on Calle Betis. La Anselma on Pages del Corro used to be a favourite of mine, but seems to have
fallen victim to its own success and is now packed with tourists and has lost
its charm. Likewise the very well-known La Carbonería in Calle Levies, which used to be the best boho flamenco venue in the
centre, now sells souvenirs just inside the entrance.
Clubs and discos
One of the best disco clubs is Sala Boss, which is at
67, Calle Betis on the Triana bank of the river, one of the most popular haunts
of late-night revellers. It opens its doors around midnight and stays open
until dawn. The music is commercial-house, and the clientele mostly trendy
twentysomethings. Wednesday is "International Day", and there are
funky parties on Thursday nights (or Friday mornings). Entrance is €8 or €10
and includes your first drink.
Even more upmarket is the Antique Theatro, in Matematicos Rey Pastor y Castro street across the river in the
Cartuja. This is probably the most famous disco in Seville and the one where
you are most likely to find celebrities like footballers, bullfighters and
entertainers. The disco has very good house music with international dj's, and
there are VIP and private rooms. Entrance is normally free.
Live Music
If live music is more your thing, there are some good
venues dotted around Seville, but be warned, you're not going to get to bed
early. Some of the favourites are Fun Club at Alameda
86 for rock and electric, El Perro Andaluz, a recently
renovated bar at Bustos Tavera 11 by Santa Catalina which is a favoured spot
for actors and artists, and Sala Malandar at Torneo 43, down by
the river, for an eclectic and progressive mix of styles.
